Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Best Sights to See in Israel

If you're coming to Israel for pleasure, I'm sure you're planning a stop in Jerusalem, a swim in the Dead Sea and maybe an excursion to Tel Aviv.  We've discovered a few spots slightly off of the tourist route that are definitely worth exploring.  Here our our favorites.

To get a great sense of history:

·         Best ruins: Tzippori/Sephoris (mosaics are outstanding – you won’t believe that they’re 2k yr old)

·         Best place to feel like an ancient Roman: Bet She'an (Scythopolis).  Biggest and best collection of Roman ruins in Israel – real feel for a roman city.

·         Best place to feel like a knight: Tel Asruf/Apollonia in Herziliya (a castle on a cliff overlooking the sea). A close second is the Knight's Hall in Akko

·         Best place to feel like a fisher of men: Capernaum (St. Peter's House) in Galilee


·         Best museum: Eretz Israel in Tel Aviv.  Interesting stuff, good explanations in English, and you can take pictures of the artifacts (unlike the Israel Museum)


·         Best place to feel the weight of history: Jerusalem, Old City, on Shabbat in lent.  People will be everywhere, in full religious garb (from orthodox Jews at the wailing wall to orthodox Christians in the holy sepulchre


To experience nature:

  • Best wildlife: Agamon Hahula (Hula Lake) just off of highway 90 in the Upper Galilee.  Great in autumn as migrating cranes make a stopover in the thousands.  Good in spring.  Hot in the summer (see Twitching in Israel for more)

  • Best lush greenery: Banias is so beautiful, wet and green that you would swear you're not in Israel.  The falls were really flowing in May and I think they are good year-round.  If you can make the trip, couple it with a dinner at Dag al HaDan.

  • Best desert landscape: Mitzpe Ramon.  On a clear day you can see the whole crater and even if you can't the diverse colors of the Carpentry are worth making the trip.  I've never felt a landscape this desolate!

  • Best unexpected surprise: If you come from March-May there are great wildflowers blooming all over Israel.  The bloom starts in the south and moves north so there's always something good to see.  The diversity of color and forms in the flowers is much better than those in California.  Everyone will go to Mt. Gilboa for the Gilboa iris, but there are good flowers growing elsewhere too!

*If you are in Haifa there are trails down the western wadis from the top of the Carmel to the sea.  Follow the brown signs to the trail at the top of the wadi and then follow the white-green-white stripes on the rocks.  Careful, the rain makes the trails very slippery!

To experience the New Israel:

  • Best cultural experience: beaches on Shabbat.  Everyone flocks to the beaches--young, old, families, singles, Arab, Russian, Jew, tourist...On Saturday nights the Haifa Hof Ha Carmel hosts folk dancing just south of the Hotel Leonardo.  Come and watch the crowds!  Last weekend several couples danced while on rollerblades

  • Best walk in Haifa: stroll the Louis Promenade on the uphill side of Yefe Nof.  Night or day, it's a gorgeous view.

  • Best Arab city: Old Akko (Acre) is a nice medieval town on the sea.  It's a seashore carnival atmosphere of Middle Eastern culture.  There's a fun souk with fishmarket and a great seashore promenade on the southern and western sides of the city.  Make a day of it and have dinner at Uri Burri (great seafood).  It's especially nice on Shabbat since it's still open when Haifa's stores are closed.

  • Best way to feel the "vibe": stroll anywhere in Tel Aviv at any time.  It's amazing but the streets will be packed at midnight with more people than were out at noon.

These are a few of our favorite things.  Really, there was nothing we saw that we regretted seeing other than a few really nasty traffic jams. 

Top Tips:
If you are here for a long time, purchase a National Parks Pass which is good for a year of unlimited entries.  Israel has 65 National Parks and more National Reserves so this has more than paid for itself in five months.  Also, parks close 1 hr earlier on Friday than they due on Saturday due to Shabbat.  If you want to make sure to see something, get there before 2.  They will close at 4 and start shooing people out of the parks at 3.

If you are interested in hiking, Carta Jerusalem publishes an excellent English guide to the National Parks.  It has a summary of each park, the trails in them, maps to them, and pictures of what to see.  It's available for purchase at the National Parks.

If you are traveling on Shabbat, target an Arab village for lunch or BYO sandwich.  Tiberias was a ghost town and the only places that were open for lunch were rest stops in the gas stations.  National Parks will probably have a small concession booth selling ice cream and water.

If you want to park in the cities before 8:00 p.m. or on days other than Shabbat, purchase an electronic parking pass (available in gas stations).  Dial in the city code and zone and it deducts from a pre-paid amount until you get back and cancel it rather than requiring you to feed the meter.  Genius! (There is also a way to pay by phone but that requires you to have a cell phone while in Israel).

Don't take life too seriously!  Always a good tip, but of utmost importance in Israel.  Don't get offended or insulted by rude behavior--it's just the way this rather aggressive country is some times.  Laugh it off and let it go.  I can't tell you how many times I've nearly been run down by buses at round-about pedestrian crossings.  The key is *nearly.*  I'm still walking and no harm's been done.

Have fun! La Chaim!

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